Modern ReefKeeping

I have been cycling my aquarium for 2 weeks. When will it be cycled?

That is a question that cannot be answered easily due to many factors and it would also depend on the type of biological filtration used to combat eventual waste from livestock. One way to avoid the mystery and be sure the system cycles properly, is to monitor the cycling of the media, I always tell newcomers to buy 3 test kits at this stage, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, monitor daily, you will see the ammonia rise and rise then the nitrite will follow, eventually nitrate will appear. The ammonia and nitrite will start to drop, and then they will eventually get to 0, when this has occurred carry out a 20%-25% water change to dilute the nitrate formed. After a few more days if the levels are still 0 the media has cycled.

Can you explain why I need an RO/DI filtration system?

It is not essential to own one of these water filtration units, however in my opinion, they are almost essential in today’s home reef aquarium. Not only do they remove all metals and chemicals as well as phosphate and nitrate which then ensures your water which is used for making up synthetic salt water and also for freshwater top ups is 100% pure, the filter also gives your prized livestock the best chance of thriving in perfect conditions, a pure water source in my view is the very best way forward to success in marine aquaria. Periodically replacing the membrane and other filters will ensure your water source remains pure; a TDS meter is a great and easy way to discover when these need to be replaced.

Do I need to keep my lights on during the cycle?

There is some speculation among reef aquarists as to whether this is a good or bad idea. My view is that the lights are not required, but I don’t think it will hurt, unless the lights are on too long and algae issues arise from the prolonged period, however I think it’s a good idea to put the lights on for an hour or 2 every day and to sit and watch the tank, not only is this pleasing to the eye of the new excited aquarist, it is also a good idea to ensure the reef wall of rock placement is right, its easy to change things around at this very early stage with minimum disruption, and also it is convenient to check all equipment within the tank is working correctly.

Should I do a water change now or wait until the cycle is over?

Again there is speculation as to whether this is a good idea. I think it depends on the media put into the tank, if you have bought expensive quality cured live rock, then you may not see too much, or anything at all of a cycle, and I would do a water change every week even at this early stage to protect the snails and crabs which will probably have already been added from unknown levels of deadly ammonia which can raise its ugly head, especially if dry sand, and a dead shrimp which most newcomers use as instructed by their local store is actually dropped in the tank. However if the media is dead rock and a shrimp added to start an ammonia source then id suggest leaving the water changing until after the media has cycled.

Why do I have brown algae all over my rocks and sand bed?

In the first 12 months or so you will likely experience all types of nuisance algae’s and bacteria’s, the brown algae you refer to is most likely called Diatoms. This is very, very common in nearly all new set ups and will usually burn out after several weeks, this can be a nuisance, is ugly and frustrating, my own experience with Diatoms is that Turbo snails will plough through it on rocks, but wont help with cleaning the sand and glass, I have yet to discover a critter who will do this bit of the cleaning for me, but I don’t doubt there are some that will do the job. The best thing to do in my view is to ensure all water added to the tank is pure and all parameters are as close to natural sea water levels as possible, this will then ensure it burns out quickly and also gives the tank a good footing for future stability.

What’s a clean up crew?

A clean up crew is a name given to snails, crabs and sometimes shrimps that help to keep the tank clean by eating waste and detritus, as well as nuisance algae. These mostly tiny creatures are the janitors of the little coral reef you have created in your home; I have seen comments by aquarists that suggest 1 per gallon is required to keep our precious aquarium clean, I think that depends on each individual system, for a newcomer to reef aquaria who has just cycled, a hypothetical 75 gallon aquarium with 60 pounds of rock, 6-8 snails to is enough to start with, I have lost count of the snails that have died in my aquarium by overstocking too quickly, anymore than 6-8 at this early stage and its very likely they will starve to death. When your system is stocked with fish and other livestock you will certainly need more, probably a lot more, its easy to add as the system grows, so please do not over fill the new aquarium with too many at newly cycled stage. A few on-line stores sell packages of so called clean up crews, these usually contain around a hundred or so of the inverts, I think this is bad practise and urge you to buy locally and in small amounts.

Can I add livestock immediately following the cycle?

When the media in your system is definitely cycled and you have confirmed this by monitoring as mentioned earlier in the article, then there is no reason why you cannot add your first fish. I would suggest though you research your intended fish first before buying due to several reasons. Firstly you need to ensure the intended fish is reef safe, there are several types of fish for sale in most stores which would enjoy eating corals and your snails and crabs. Secondly you need to ensure the fish will thrive in your tank, for example a trigger fish would not be a good tank mate for a sea horse, and a triggerfish wont fair well or live long in a 10 gallon nano. Please take the time to research the fish you want, they will be happier in a decent environment and you will enjoy them more for it. It is also important to stock your reef sensibly, remember corals and inverts are very susceptible to ammonia, and the more fish you have the more waste you will accumulate, it’s a dangerous game for a newcomer to overstock, as you gain experience you will be able to control the biological filtration to cope with a high bio load, until then be careful and sensible.

How often do I need to test my water parameters? What should my parameters be? What kits do I need?

At the initial start up stage you will need, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, a thermometer and hydrometer or Refractometer.
When the tank has cycled, you will then need to start to concentrate on alkalinity, ph, calcium, and magnesium.
The levels vary really, for example it depends on your stock as to the parameters you keep the system at, if you currently have a SPS reef then calcium levels will need to be higher than a reef with a few soft corals. I maintain my system as below:
Ammonia =0 at all times
Nitrite =0 at all times
Nitrate = preferably 0, however under 5 at all times
Alkalinity = 8-10 DKH
Calcium = 420-450
Magnesium =1300-1350
Ph = 8.2-8.4 if possible, although this is my hardest parameter to maintain.

I hope this 3rd part new to reef aquaria has been useful, as always if you require further information, please visit me at our forums.

Good luck and enjoy your tank.